Chincoteague

Life in the 1800's
From Lillian Mears Rew

(The text and photos included in these sections are from Lillian Mears Rew's book, Assateague & Chincoteague: As I Remember Them. The copyright belongs to Mrs. Rew's family, and the sections included here are reprinted by permission. Please note that the text and photos may not be reproduced in any form without prior written permission.)

Before 1858 the Islanders were without a resident physician. Until our first physician arrived in 1859 all medical aid had to be secured at Horntown. The Islanders had to cross the sound to receive medical aid, if they could not be helped by some of the local people.

The first physician to make his home here was Dr. Hudson, who resided on the Island from 1859 to 1861. However, one of the inhabitants, Mrs. Richard Reynolds, with herbs and wild roots was able to cure fevers and certain types of illness. Her fame is well known today. There are living testimonies of her remarkable work, especially her treatment for the curing of cancer. Mrs. Arena Thornton, wife of Benjamin Thornton, great uncle of the writer, who remembers her well, was totally cured after receiving treatment from Mrs. Reynolds. The cancer was on the nose and after she was cured only two little holes remained about the size of a pin head through which she was able to breathe. Mrs. Reynolds died without revealing her priceless secret.

Black Boat to Franklin City
Black Boat to Franklin City

In 1854 the first post office was established with John A.M. Whealton, a descendant of the early Whealton Brothers, as its first postmaster. The first mail, six letters, was transported from Horntown by James M. Matthews to the Island.

Today all mail is either delivered to all the homes or called for by those using boxes at the post office.

The first mail carrier was Mr. Alonza Dennis in the year 1905. Due to retirement, Mrs. Reuben Bishop succeeded him and worked until time of retirement. Several had continued to carry mail to nearly all parts of the Island.

On April 9, 1898, Mrs. Jones succeeded in having a mail route established from Wisharts Point on the mainland to the Island.

A Boat to Wishart's Point
A Boat to Wishart's Point

Transportation was so very difficult very few people attempted to travel. Whenever trips were taken to the mainland the settlers would trade as much as possible and then return home to make out the best way they could in between times.

Chincoteague Dock and Express Offiice
Chincoteague dock and express office - before the
opening of the Causeway in 1922

As years passed by, surface changes have taken place. In the 1800's when one went to Chincoteague one crossed from Franklin City in a little steam yacht. Also anyone going south would do likewise. The flat green marshes gave way to sea; then Wallop's Island sprang into view, and then out of the mists came the slim foot of Assateague, and west and north of it the long blue line that was Chincoteague. The line winded and darkened; the upper side defined itself into the plumes of large pines, the lower side into a long street of houses sitting by the sea. On closer approach these houses showed the color of a city in the child's fairy tale - buff and pink, blue and white. Here and there in the water tall stakes on slim waving branches of trees marked the sites of oyster beds. Near the causeway these scenes may be observed today. In place of sailboats and rowboats and open fishing boats clustering the docks, many large fishing boats and large yachts may now be seen.

When boats landed at dock in those old days, one was greeted with smiles, if not words, by a number of inhabitants to whom a stranger was so much of an agreeable rarity that he seemed like a household guest. One walked a few steps and looked down a slightly irregular street paved with oyster-shells. Upon entering the hotel, which needed painting and sweeping, one had to find the proprietor, who was not expecting a traveler.

Steamer Chincoteague Arrives
Steamer Chincoteague arrives at the dock,
with people welcoming the passengers

At the long table, there was never a more kindly set of people than a few men who sat about it, exchanging personal conversations and eating heartily. One would drift into a shop where the stock was arranged in hit-or-miss fashion on the shelves, the boxes half open and the contents peeping over the edges. It took the proprietor some time to find what one wanted; he laid the box out on the counter, and there it still lay a month later, the dust leisurely sifting in; there was no mayor and no prison, and, after the first rage, people forgave easily whatever crime was committed. In other words, people took the law in their own hands. Lots of times the two having an argument would fight later and the one that got the best of the other would shake hands and try to settle the argument.

Times changed in the early 1900's somewhat. Better homes, hotels, and places of business made a great change. Large gasoline steamers carried passengers to and from the Island going either north or south. The hotels were no longer untidy, but met the requirements of that day.

Island Hotel
Island Hotel, later converted to offices and was used
as Mechanics Hall

May I share this amusing incident I read from the Harper's Magazine in an article entitled "The Island of Chincoteague" written by Maude Radford Warren in 1913.

... When the chamber maid showed one to one's room she said, "Things hain't like they were when you came before." She pushed contemptuously aside a lamp that stood on the table and explained, "We have gas, of course; we just keep a lamp in case." At the door she added, "If you want to telephone to any of your friends you can. We could have a telegraft if we wanted, but I reckin the telephone is quicker."
Quicker! Had haste come to Chincoteague!
She lingered in the doorway hospitably. "Want anything more?"
"I'll ring if I do, thank you."
"We hain't got no belts yet" she admitted, reluctantly. "You’ll have to holler over the banisters."

This conversation of the chamber maid in 1913 was truly a good description of the Atlantic Hotel on the Island at that time.

In another description, she made a struggle for supremacy.

"We got 2 five-cent theatres; be sure you go tonight."
Her last words were...
"We got 5 ladies lodges now besides all the men, have an iron pen to jail'em, also a mayor."

The Island Hotel built by D.J. Whealton, closed after it was built for lack of managers and helpers. Later it was converted into offices and apartments. Several families lived in this nice, large building. The front of the building was later changed and used as a shoe shop operated by Mr. William Reynolds on one side. Soon the rest of the front of the building was used as a post office; above the post office various lodges had their quarters. Junior O.U.A.M., Masons, and Daughters of Liberty.

A Notary Public took care of many kinds of businesses in one of the rooms, also.

In 1879 the Pennsylvania Railroad company established a branch line from Chincoteague to Franklin City. This line made transportation more convenient and increased the transporting of goods to the northern cities. Later passengers were brought by the boat named "Chincoteague."

Farming and stock-raising were the chief occupations of the early settlers. Potatoes, strawberries, and corn of finest qualities were grown by William Thomas, Colonel Covington, Carlin Williams, N. Conant, and a little later by the Jesters, R.W. Bishop, the Tarrs and William F. Cropper; most of the land in the northern part of the Island was used for this purpose.

For many years the people were very content to lead the calm, unconcerned life of their forefathers.

As time went on the population grew too large for farming; the early settlers could no longer make a living by farming. The changing world gradually penetrated over to Chincoteague. Slowly old interests declined and passed away; for every old way of life that perished, many new ones flourished.

About this time a paddle wheel steamboat named "Chincoteague" was obtained to carry passengers and freight to and from the Island. It was a nice steamer with a length of 100.0 ft., bredth of 21.0 ft. and depth of 5.8 ft. It was 143 net tons, with 110 horse power.

Chincoteague Steamer
Chincoteague Steamer, plying between
Chincoteague and Franklin City

It was built in 1893 at Wilmington, Delaware, for Philadelphia, Pennsylvania; Wilmington, Delaware; and Baltimore, Maryland, railroad. Her official number was 126990. "Chincoteague" steamer was transferred in 1905 to the Maryland, Delaware and Virginia Railway Company, but sold in 1923 to Long Island Sound where she operated on the Thames River. Her service to the Eastern Shore of Virginia was during the busy producing season in the summer.

On December 28, 1937, the steamer, "Chincoteague, was converted to scrap metal. Her well-known Captains were W.F. Charnock and Spencer D. Hall.